I am usually not one to worry about what strangers think of me, but I was a little concerned before moving here about how Koreans would respond to my presence. I had heard a variety of stories about how Koreans treat the foreign population. Some stories portrayed Koreans as extremely hospitable people who will go out of their way to make sure foreigners have a positive experience in their own country. On the other hand, there were stories that characterized Koreans as unwelcoming towards foreigners and in some cases, hostile. I was not naive enough to believe that either of these examples are typical of the average Korean, and assumed that the norm would be somewhere in-between. Nevertheless, as I was about to move halfway around the world to a place where I didn't know a soul (no pun intended...Seoul, get it?), I was curious and a little bit anxious about how I would be treated.
My assumption that the scenarios I mentioned above were outliers was correct. For the most part, I have been largely ignored by the locals as I have gone about my life. If there has been any reaction to my presence, negative or otherwise, the people have kept it to themselves and not made it known to me. This may be largely due to the tendency of Koreans to be shy, but I also assume that most people in Changwon have seen enough foreigners and are indifferent towards my existence.
Most of the interactions I have had with Koreans up to this point have been positive. For example, I've met a few locals at the expat bar here in Changwon and have chatted with them over a few beers. Just the other night, I spent a couple hours talking with a friendly Korean guy. Afterward, we stumbled to a late night restaurant to eat some gukbap before we parted ways. (Note to self: The gukbap was a better post-drinking meal than McDonald's or Taco Bell. The bottle of soju, on the other hand, probably defeated the purpose of eating following a night of drinking!)
On Christmas, my boss invited me and a couple coworkers to his church for Christmas mass. Over the lunch that followed, we met the pastor and his wife. Besides being friendly, they gave us each a 3-pack of tissues as a Christmas gift. It doesn't sound like much, but it is the thought behind the gesture that counts. Besides, at the time, I had tissues on my shopping list! We also met another member of the church who spoke English very well. He gave us his business card and told us we could contact him if we needed any help.
A couple weeks ago, I was walking back to my apartment when a Korean woman stopped me and asked if I could shake her son's hand warmers to heat them up for him. I was told I looked strong enough to do so. We spent a couple minutes engaging in small-talk and she wound up telling me I have nice looking gums! I am going to file that away as one of the stranger compliments I have received but it is a compliment nonetheless.
Besides that example, my interaction on the streets has been mostly limited to Korean youth. While Koreans tend to be shy, the children will be more brave when in groups, especially the boys. When this is the case, one member of the group will usually say hello and ask where I am from. Sometimes, this is preceded or followed by a comment along the lines of, "Wow! You very tall!" The girls tend to be more bashful and are often too afraid to talk to foreigners. Every now and then, if I pass a group of girls on the street, one or more will smile and wave and occasionally say hello but will not interact as much as the boys.
While I am obviously a minority in an otherwise homogeneous population, I do not feel as if I am unwelcome. I'm sure at some point, I will encounter a Korean (or group of Koreans) who will say something negative or provocative towards me. There is a good chance that he/they will be drunk when it happens. I am confident that, based on my positive encounters, I will not let such an occurrence taint my view of Korean people as a whole.
Wednesday, January 25, 2012
Saturday, January 21, 2012
These Damn Umbrellas!!!
Well, it took over a month and half, but I finally have a complaint about Korea! The past couple days have been a little rainy and I've noticed that even when there is the slightest drizzle (I'm not exaggerating here), the vast majority of Koreans will use umbrellas. Normally, this would not be a problem except for the fact that most sidewalks are narrow and I am considerably taller than the local population. Considering that most people hold the umbrella 6-12 inches above their heads, this means that the spokes at the edge of the umbrella are around eye level to me! I've had a couple close calls this past week where I thought I was going to be poked in the eye as I passed someone walking in the opposite direction! Come on people! A tiny bit of water is not going to hurt you!!!
Sunday, January 15, 2012
Initial Thoughts and Observations - Transportation
Getting around Changwon was initially difficult as I was unfamiliar with the city and most people don't know (or pretend not to understand) English. During the first month, walking has been my main mode of transportation. Besides the exercise benefits, walking is convenient because I do not need to depend on a Korean to get where I want to go. It also helps that most of what I have wanted or needed thus far can be found within reasonable walking distance. Despite these advantages, walking can be a hazardous task as well. I didn't take long for me to realize that I must be completely alert when walking along the streets as drivers, especially those on motorcycles and scooters, are not above using the sidewalk to decrease their travel time and will not always yield to pedestrians in the streets and in crosswalks. Also, some drivers, especially those driving buses or 2-wheeled vehicles, will treat red lights as merely a suggestion. I've recently discovered that South Korea has one of the highest pedestrian fatality rates in the world!
The bus network is very efficient and cost only 1000 won for most buses (1000 won is slightly less than $1), but figuring out the destination of each bus can be a daunting task. The route maps at the bus stops are vague and only in Korean and for some reason, I cannot load the online maps on my computer. However, once I learn where the different routes go, the city buses will be my main transportation choice when walking just isn't an option. Like walking, I found out rather quickly that riding the bus presents its own hazards as well. It would be completely justified to make the assumption that the bus drivers' pay is determined based upon how quickly they finish their routes rather than hours worked. The last person in line to board the bus may not even be completely on the vehicle before the driver accelerates like a bat out of hell. Many drivers are not gentle on the brakes either and I'm surprised I have yet to see (or be a passenger on) a tipped bus because the driver took a turn too fast! It also doesn't help that there are fewer seats on the buses than city buses back in the U.S. so many people have to stand and hold on for dear life as the driver tries to beat the next traffic light and then slams on the breaks because he wasn't expecting the vehicle in front to stop. Despite all this, the buses tend to be crowded so they must not be that dangerous........
The third option for traveling around Changwon is via taxi. This is not to say that taxis are a bad way to go, but unless the bus isn't an option or I need to be somewhere in a hurry, the bus will always be cheaper when traveling solo. However, if I can successfully tell the non-English speaking driver where I want to go, taxis are quite affordable compared to those in Chicago. The most I paid for a taxi in Changwon was 12,000 won for a 20-25 minute journey. The last taxi I took in the U.S. was $18 for a 5 minute ride. Finding a taxi is easy as well. There are taxi stands all over Changwon with taxis waiting for passengers. If I am not near a taxi stand, flagging one down from the street is also an option. Odds are, an available taxi can be found in less than a minute or two. In addition, the interiors of the taxis I have ridden were much nicer and cleaner than any taxi I've ridden in the U.S.
The bus network is very efficient and cost only 1000 won for most buses (1000 won is slightly less than $1), but figuring out the destination of each bus can be a daunting task. The route maps at the bus stops are vague and only in Korean and for some reason, I cannot load the online maps on my computer. However, once I learn where the different routes go, the city buses will be my main transportation choice when walking just isn't an option. Like walking, I found out rather quickly that riding the bus presents its own hazards as well. It would be completely justified to make the assumption that the bus drivers' pay is determined based upon how quickly they finish their routes rather than hours worked. The last person in line to board the bus may not even be completely on the vehicle before the driver accelerates like a bat out of hell. Many drivers are not gentle on the brakes either and I'm surprised I have yet to see (or be a passenger on) a tipped bus because the driver took a turn too fast! It also doesn't help that there are fewer seats on the buses than city buses back in the U.S. so many people have to stand and hold on for dear life as the driver tries to beat the next traffic light and then slams on the breaks because he wasn't expecting the vehicle in front to stop. Despite all this, the buses tend to be crowded so they must not be that dangerous........
Euna Apartment Bus Stop
Euna Apartment Bus Stop
While I'm getting better at it, reading these bus maps
is not easy to do.
Taxi stands can be found in convenient
locations all around the city.
Another way people move about Changwon is by riding bicycles. There are red bike paths along most city streets or sidewalks. Changwon prides itself on being biker friendly. The city has a bike rental program called Nubija, where people can borrow a bike whenever they want and return it when they are finished at any Nubija location. I forget the exact cost, but its less than 20,000 won for a yearly membership. I don't know if I will ever use these bicycles as I really haven't had the need but its nice to know they are there if I do.
Nubija location in downtown Sangnam-dong
Green is for pedestrians. Red is for bicycles.
I can say without a doubt that I do not miss driving one bit! Changwon's cheap, efficient transportation system means I should not have any problem getting to the places I want to go. It's only a matter of whether or not I get there in one piece!
Thursday, January 12, 2012
Initial Thoughts and Observations - Sangnam-dong
In South Korea, each si (city) is divided into gu (districts) which are then divided into dong (neighborhoods). My neighborhood is called Sangnam-dong. It is located in the center of Changwon and I don't think I could be any more happy with my location. If I want or need anything and it is available in Changwon, I can most likely get it via walking or taking a short bus ride.
I have repeatedly said that Sangnam-dong is not quite Las Vegas and not quite Times Square, but there are some similarities to the two American locations. This area, along with Jungang-dong, is the nightlife center of Changwon. As everyone is getting out of work and the sun is setting, the streets of Sangnam-dong fill with cars, and people litter the sidewalks, bars, noraebangs (karaoke rooms), restaurants, and cafes. Also crowding the sidewalks are street vendors selling cheap food/snacks and other items such as jewelry, flowers, etc. The overabundance of neon signs on almost every building light up the area advertising what is inside and what floor it can be found on. If you venture onto an elevator at night, you are likely to see "hooker cards" advertising scantly clad Korean girls who will provide "company" for a price. On one occasion, I did share an elevator ride with a Korean man who grabbed a card on his way out the door! These activities last well into the night. Even on a Tuesday night, I am no longer surprised to see groups of drunk Koreans stumble along the sidewalks after a fun night out.
I have repeatedly said that Sangnam-dong is not quite Las Vegas and not quite Times Square, but there are some similarities to the two American locations. This area, along with Jungang-dong, is the nightlife center of Changwon. As everyone is getting out of work and the sun is setting, the streets of Sangnam-dong fill with cars, and people litter the sidewalks, bars, noraebangs (karaoke rooms), restaurants, and cafes. Also crowding the sidewalks are street vendors selling cheap food/snacks and other items such as jewelry, flowers, etc. The overabundance of neon signs on almost every building light up the area advertising what is inside and what floor it can be found on. If you venture onto an elevator at night, you are likely to see "hooker cards" advertising scantly clad Korean girls who will provide "company" for a price. On one occasion, I did share an elevator ride with a Korean man who grabbed a card on his way out the door! These activities last well into the night. Even on a Tuesday night, I am no longer surprised to see groups of drunk Koreans stumble along the sidewalks after a fun night out.
My Building at Night
Sangnam-dong at Night
Sangnam-dong at Night
Playboy has a presence in Sangnam-dong.
Street Vendor Selling "Fishy" Snacks
Hooker Cards in My Building's Elevator
If there is a downside to Sangnam-dong, it is that the neighborhood can be a little boring in the morning and early afternoon on most days. For example, many of the restaurants and bars do not open until late afternoon or early evening. The exception to this is on days that end in a 4 or 9. These days are "market days" in Sangnam-dong. At 9:00 A.M, many vendors will start setting up their areas to sell produce, fresh seafood, Korean snacks, and even inedible goods such as clothing. Even better, the main location for the market is right at the end of my block so I don't have to go far to partake! Just the other day, I bought a bag of small oranges (about 20-25) and a bag of kiwis (about 15-16) for a grand total of 6,000 won (just under $6)!
Sangnam-dong During the Day
Sangnam-dong During the Day
One of my biggest worries coming to Korea was the location of my housing. I had nightmares of being on the outskirts of town with nothing going on in the immediate vicinity. Thankfully, these fears were unfounded. I can say with great confidence that I will be happy living in Sangnam-dong for at least the next 11 months.
Monday, January 9, 2012
My First Hike
Considering 70% of the Korean peninsula is covered by mountains, it is no secret that hiking is a national past time here. Since part of my reason for coming here is to experience the culture, it only makes sense for me to want to give it a shot. Yesterday's weather was sunny with a high of 8 degrees Celsius so it seemed like a perfect opportunity to hike one of the mountains surrounding Changwon.
Despite the popularity of hiking here in Changwon, it is nearly impossible to find information about the trails on the Internet. The only useful information I came across said there was a trail "somewhere behind Changwon University." That seemed about a close as I was going to get to a location so I figured I'd have to make it work. I didn't want to bring my leather jacket so I layered a long sleeve shirt underneath my hoodie. I packed my backpack (If you're reading this Michelle, I'm glad I bought that bag from Target!) with a 2 liter bottle of water, a bunch of oranges and kiwis, my camera, and gloves and off I went to catch a bus to the university.
Since it was Sunday, the university was nearly deserted. I wandered around the part of campus near the base of the mountains for nearly an hour with no luck. I gave up and was going to head to one other location in Changwon I thought had a good chance of being an entrance to a hiking trail. However, upon leaving campus, I saw several people with backpacks, hiking outfits, and hiking poles walking down a road. I couldn't believe my luck! I followed and sure enough, they lead me straight to one of the trails. Just outside the entrance were several vendors selling food, beverages, and as expected, hiking equipment. It was just about 11:30 when I began my trek up the mountain.
Despite the popularity of hiking here in Changwon, it is nearly impossible to find information about the trails on the Internet. The only useful information I came across said there was a trail "somewhere behind Changwon University." That seemed about a close as I was going to get to a location so I figured I'd have to make it work. I didn't want to bring my leather jacket so I layered a long sleeve shirt underneath my hoodie. I packed my backpack (If you're reading this Michelle, I'm glad I bought that bag from Target!) with a 2 liter bottle of water, a bunch of oranges and kiwis, my camera, and gloves and off I went to catch a bus to the university.
Since it was Sunday, the university was nearly deserted. I wandered around the part of campus near the base of the mountains for nearly an hour with no luck. I gave up and was going to head to one other location in Changwon I thought had a good chance of being an entrance to a hiking trail. However, upon leaving campus, I saw several people with backpacks, hiking outfits, and hiking poles walking down a road. I couldn't believe my luck! I followed and sure enough, they lead me straight to one of the trails. Just outside the entrance were several vendors selling food, beverages, and as expected, hiking equipment. It was just about 11:30 when I began my trek up the mountain.
Hiking Trail Entrance
The first part of the hike was relatively easy. The path was low grade and fairly smooth while running along a little creek. After hiking about 1.5 km, I came to a fork in the path. Since the sign there was in Korean, I didn't know what it said, but I was feeling ambitious and took the path with the longest distance.
Easy Part of Hiking Path
Creek Alongside Hiking Path
Bridges on Hiking Path
First Fork on Trail
It was at this point when the path started to narrow and the slope of the mountain was such that any fall was going to involve me rolling down a steep slope if I didn't slam into a tree first. Before long, I came to another fork. This time, the options were to continue on the path I was on which had been fairly easy to this point, or to veer to the right and head up a steep, rocky slope. Having exerted very little effort to this point, I decided to head to the right. I didn't get far before I realized just how out of shape I am! A little ways up, there were a couple of benches and I decided to take my first rest.
Mountain Slope
The other sign of just how out of shape I am were all of the Koreans effortlessly passing me on the way up the mountain. This includes elderly men and women! Here I am huffing and puffing as I climb the steep path and navigate the rocks while 60 year old ajummas move along as if they are walking along a city sidewalk. At least a lot of them were friendly enough to offer a courteous annyeong haseyo as they passed me by. A little ways up the mountain I come to a small clearing offering a peek down into Changwon. Despite resting a few times already, I decide to stop and enjoy the view for a couple minutes. I figured I was about halfway up the mountain but was not yet satisfied so I continued on.
An ajumma effortlessly navigates the terrain.
The view from halfway up the mountain.
The view from halfway up the mountain.
If I thought it was difficult getting up to this point, I was in for a big surprise! The rest of the way featured very steep paths, large rock formations to navigate, and massive stairs built into the mountainside to climb. I had to stop more frequently to rest, drink some water, eat some fruit, and catch my breath. At some point, my throat started to hurt as well. It was along this stretch that I saw the first hiker walking with a tiny dog. The dog could not have been more than 6-8 lbs. I don't know how the dog got up (or down) the mountain with those tiny legs but it would not be the last little dog I would see that day. Despite my condition (or lack thereof), I was determined to continue on.
Staircase Built Into the Mountain
Steep Trail Near the Peak
I encountered a large rock formation on the path that required some effort to climb. Upon reaching the top of the rock, I realized that I was at the peak. Despite every blow I sustained from the mountain, I made it!!! The views were amazing! All of a sudden, my aches and pains disappeared! I checked my watch and noticed it was just after 2:00. It took over 2.5 hours to go from the base of the mountain to the peak. I stayed at the top of the mountain for about a half hour to enjoy the view. Some friendly Korean hikers offered me an orange which I gladly accepted with a sincere kamsahamnida. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to converse with them, but I can live with this being my biggest disappointment of the day.
Me at the Peak
Me at the Peak
View of Changwon from the Peak
View of Changwon from the Peak
(The buildings with the green roofs are Changwon University)
The Beginning of the Trail as seen from the Peak
(The red and blue tents were the vendors I described earlier.)
View from the Peak
View from the Peak
View from the Peak
View from the Peak
I believe this stone marked the peak.
I finally decided it was time to head back down the mountain. This provided its own set of challenges. While I was able to make it down without stopping in under an hour, it was in a way, more difficult than on the way up. Going down the steep rocky paths and staircases was hell on my knees. There were numerous times where my feet almost slipped out from underneath me or that I felt like I was about to fall forward. As on the way up, I was repeatedly passed by Koreans of all ages making their way down the mountain with ease. Finally, at about 3:30, I was at the base of the mountain.
Much more difficult on the way down!
After hiking for over 4 hours and an estimated 12 km, I was too sore to look for the bus stop so I jumped in a taxi to get back to my apartment. I spend the rest of the day and night lying on my bed watching movies and television only getting up to get some bibimbop from the nearby takeout restaurant. Despite my pain, I am proud of myself for being able to make it all the way to the top. I definitely hope to get back out there soon!
Sunday, January 8, 2012
Initial Thoughts and Observations - Sights of Changwon
After a 35 hour journey from Chicago, passing through Hong Kong and Incheon, I arrived in my new hometown of Changwon, South Korea. Changwon is a small city (by Korean standards) near the southern coast of South Korea with a population slightly over 1 million people. In the unlikely event that Seoul is captured during a North Korean invasion, Changwon is designated as the backup capitol of South Korea.
It has now been a month since I arrived in Changwon. Being an industrial city, Changwon does not have much in the way of appealing architecture. All around the city, one can see enormous apartment complexes with many identical buildings, some as high as 20-25 stories, where a majority of the population resides. Many of the buildings in Changwon, apartment or otherwise, are grey, rectangular, concrete blocks that were presumably build with function in mind and no thought to aesthetic value. While there are some buildings where creativity was a factor in the designs (the local mall, The City 7, comes to mind), most of the visual appeal of the city comes from the mountains that surround it. No matter which way one faces in Changwon, mountains provide a pleasing backdrop for the uninspiring buildings littered around the city. I have not yet tried it, but I am told that hiking up the mountain trails offers spectacular views of Changwon and the surrounding areas and I look forward to doing just that very soon.
Speaking of weather, I have noticed that there has been VERY little precipitation during my first month here. Even though the past few weeks have seen temperatures below the posted averages, I have only seen snow once. It was a light dusting and only lasted about 10 minutes. There was no evidence of the snow anywhere even minutes after it stopped. Most days have been clear and sunny with highs in the mid to upper single digits (celcius). Despite the colder than average weather here, I still think it is an improvement over the typical Chicago weather during the months of December and January. I can't wait for spring to arrive, however, because it seems like Changwon has much to offer for people willing to spend time outdoors.
Despite the industrial feel of much of the city, Changwon contains many parks scattered throughout its borders. This, I've read, is not common in Korean cities. During my free time this past month, I have enjoyed exploring different areas of the city and have come across a few of these parks. Whether it is a large park to be used for festivals and performances, a small pond with paths crisscrossing it, or a wooded area with Korean War monuments to be discovered here and there, these parks seem like relaxing, scenic, areas which also add to the visual appeal of Changwon. When the temperatures warm up a little, I may bring my Kindle to some of these areas to relax and enjoy a little fresh air from time to time.
It has now been a month since I arrived in Changwon. Being an industrial city, Changwon does not have much in the way of appealing architecture. All around the city, one can see enormous apartment complexes with many identical buildings, some as high as 20-25 stories, where a majority of the population resides. Many of the buildings in Changwon, apartment or otherwise, are grey, rectangular, concrete blocks that were presumably build with function in mind and no thought to aesthetic value. While there are some buildings where creativity was a factor in the designs (the local mall, The City 7, comes to mind), most of the visual appeal of the city comes from the mountains that surround it. No matter which way one faces in Changwon, mountains provide a pleasing backdrop for the uninspiring buildings littered around the city. I have not yet tried it, but I am told that hiking up the mountain trails offers spectacular views of Changwon and the surrounding areas and I look forward to doing just that very soon.
Apartment Complex in Changwon
Mountain View
Mountain View with Apartment Complex
Speaking of weather, I have noticed that there has been VERY little precipitation during my first month here. Even though the past few weeks have seen temperatures below the posted averages, I have only seen snow once. It was a light dusting and only lasted about 10 minutes. There was no evidence of the snow anywhere even minutes after it stopped. Most days have been clear and sunny with highs in the mid to upper single digits (celcius). Despite the colder than average weather here, I still think it is an improvement over the typical Chicago weather during the months of December and January. I can't wait for spring to arrive, however, because it seems like Changwon has much to offer for people willing to spend time outdoors.
Despite the industrial feel of much of the city, Changwon contains many parks scattered throughout its borders. This, I've read, is not common in Korean cities. During my free time this past month, I have enjoyed exploring different areas of the city and have come across a few of these parks. Whether it is a large park to be used for festivals and performances, a small pond with paths crisscrossing it, or a wooded area with Korean War monuments to be discovered here and there, these parks seem like relaxing, scenic, areas which also add to the visual appeal of Changwon. When the temperatures warm up a little, I may bring my Kindle to some of these areas to relax and enjoy a little fresh air from time to time.
Park near Gyeongsangnam-do Provinical Office
Park near Gyeongsangnam-do Provinical Office
(Odd) Statue in Park near Gyeongsangnam-do Provinical Office
Korean War Memorial near Yongji Park
Thursday, January 5, 2012
Greetings from South Korea!
I wanted to document my stay in Korea for my own purposes, but I know many people back home want updates of my time here. With this in mind, I decided to publish this in blog form so those of you interested can keep abreast of my experiences across the Pacific.
The first few posts will be about my thoughts and observations during my first month or so here. After that, I will add more when something comes up I would like to share.
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