Wednesday, January 8, 2014

Gangwon Province


It is early January here in southern Korea and I am staring out the window at the rain that is falling (yes, I said rain).  I can’t help but grin as I recall the many Facebook statuses I’ve recently read from friends and family back in America complaining about all of the snow and freezing temperatures.  To be fair, we do get some cold temperatures in Changwon, but we have yet to experience them.  However, if you live in Changwon and want to see snow, you have to go find it.

This was the goal as Johann and I set out for Gangwon province during our short vacation.  We wanted to do some scenic photography, preferably snow-covered, and Gangwon province, a mountainous, rural region up in the northern part of Korea seemed like the perfect place to go.  An in interesting side note, Pyeongchang, in Gangwon province, will be the host of the 2018 Winter Olympics. 

We departed Monday afternoon with nothing planned except for our first stop, Chuncheon.  Chuncheon is the capital, and largest city, in Gangwon province, but that’s not saying much.  After six hours of travel, we walked around looking for an acceptable motel.  The rest of the night was spent relaxing and planning for the next day.

Motel Room

My First Bidet!!!  (It wasn't as great as I've heard people say it is.)


We made the decision to spend the next day in and around Chuncheon.  We find a park with dozens of sculptures on display.  Many of the sculptures consisted of nude women and children in various poses.  It’s still shocking that Korean culture is considered to be conservative considering such displays are not uncommon in Korea.  In addition to these “liberal” sculptures, there is a park devoted to toilets in Suwon, and another park devoted to erotic sculptures on Jeju Island.  I have yet to see either, but both are on my to-do list.

Weirdest children's game I've ever seen!

I wonder what artist thought, "I'm going to make a sculpture of a little naked girl catching a giant fish."

She might not be nude, but when approached from a certain angle, it still looks wrong!

Um.......no comment!

Baseball....Pencil Sharpeners.....Roseanne..............Ok, now I'm good!


After the park, we took the train out to Gugok Waterfall.  To get there, we had to hike up a snow-covered path through the valley.  At the end, after climbing the stairs, we were able to gaze upon the frozen falls, hanging lifelessly over the edge of the cliff.  The highlight of the waterfall trip, however, had to be the young girl who yelled down the stairs to her mother that she needed to hurry up because she is the slowest…in perfect English!!!  Our jaws dropped hearing her accent-less speech!






No trip to Chuncheon would be complete without trying 닭갈비 (dakgalbi), the dish that put Chuncheon on the map.  There are literally streets devoted to this dish.  It is a spicy chicken stir-fry often grilled right at the table in front of you.  The dish is so popular with tourists that, when Johann and I entered the restaurant for dinner, the ajumma didn’t even take our order.  She just greeted us and asked, “닭갈비?” 

닭갈비


The next morning, we left Chuncheon for nearby Yanggu, a very small town near the border with North Korea.  We chose Yanggu because of the lakes that are nestled in the mountains nearby.  In the brochure for Yanggu, fishing is advertised as a year-round activity, so we were looking forward to a relaxing afternoon fishing and drinking whiskey.  We show the brochure to a taxi driver who nods and drives us 15km into the mountains.  He drops us off at the fishing park next to the lake and takes off.  There’s nobody in sight!  We go to the nearby pension where we are told that there is no fishing until spring.  Dejected, we walk around the lake for a little while before calling a taxi to come take up back into town.







We would have loved to go back to the lake at night to see the stars, but did not feel it was worth 35,000 won round-trip for the taxi, nor the hassle of trying to call somebody to come get us out in the mountains at that time of night.  The lesson we learned is if we are going to travel in remote places, it’s better to have your own car.  This is why both Johann and I will be obtaining Korean driver’s licenses in the near future.

Anyway, we had previously noticed a walking path along the river near our hotel.  We figured this to be a possible location to try our luck at stargazing.  Long after sunset, we headed out to the path.  While we were able to see the stars, it was nowhere near the brightness or clarity we were hoping for.  It is amazing how even a small town such as Yanggu can create enough light pollution to diminish the view of the nighttime sky!




Despite a few disappointments along the way, we were satisfied as we headed back to Changwon the next day.  It was a much-needed change of scenery from the urban life that I have been accustomed to the past couple years.  Also, and I don’t quite know why this is, but it was also nice to not see many foreigners during our travels.  It’s not that I think foreigners in Korea are annoying or insufferable but for some reason, I was happy not to see any for a couple days. 

Gangwon Province provides a perfect getaway for someone in Korea looking to get out of the city and into the scenic countryside for a short while.  I wouldn’t want to live there as a foreigner, but I do hope to return, with a car, in the near future.