First Trip to Busan

I finally made it outside of Changwon for reasons other than work.  This past Saturday, I went to Busan with Mark, a friend and coworker of mine, and his friend Ian (whom I only met for the second time).  It was a busy, exhausting day, but I had a lot of fun and met some cool people there.

We took the 8:00 bus from Changwon to the Sasang Bus Terminal in Busan.  The trip lasted approximately 30 minutes.  I was surprised at how cheap the tickets were.  The cost was only 3,700 won for the one way trip to Sasang.  Unlike Changwon, Busan has a subway system which we used for the next part of our journey.  Busan's subway system seems just like any that could be found in America with one major inconvenience.  The ticket vending machines do not accept credit cards.  If you do not have a Mybi card (a prepaid transportation fare card of which I left at home), you must pay with cash and of course, the machines don't accept notes greater than 1,000 won.  (It doesn't help that the ATMs will only distribute 10,000 won notes.)

 The Busan subway can be extremely crowded at times.

Our first stop of the day was at a Toastmaster's meeting where Ian is a member.  Toastmasters is an international organization to help people become better public speakers and communicators.  The meeting was held at Pusan National University.  From what I could gather, aside from Ian, the club consisted of Koreans looking to improve their English speaking abilities.  Some people volunteer to give prepared speeches at each meeting and others volunteer to perform evaluating roles.  At this meeting there was only one prepared speaker.  I think it was his first speech as a member.  In my opinion, he did a great job as he looked comfortable (most Koreans are very shy when speaking English) and delivered a humorous speech which seemed to hold the audiences' attention. 

After the prepared speeches, the club has a session called Table Topics.  During this session, people select an unknown topic and deliver a 1-2 minute speech.  I was "volunteered" to participate in this.  I agreed and delivered a short speech and the topic was "My Mentor".  Mark and Ian also participated during this session but had different topics.  I must say that I was impressed that the Korean members were making a serious effort to improve their skills and confidence in using the English language.  Afterward, we went out for coffee and sandwiches with some of the club members. 

After lunch, it was back to the subway to head to our next destination.  We went to go help out at an Olympics style event that was being held for children from an orphanage.  A local volunteer organization for expats was sponsoring the event so there were volunteers not only from Korea, but from other countries such as America, South Africa, China, and Iran.  The children seemed to have a fun time interacting with the volunteers while playing games and doing other activities.  After the children returned to the orphanage, most of the volunteers gathered at a coffee shop to socialize and eat pizza, chicken, and bread (various cakes and such).  I met some very interesting people not only from Korea but other parts of the world as well.



When the event was over, Mark, Ian, and I went to a couple foreigner bars in Busan.  The first was a New Zealand style bar called The Beach.  As the name implies, the bar is on the street that runs along Gwangalli Beach.  However, we were unsure which direction it was from where we were so twice Mark asked a foreigner, "Where is The Beach?"  Both times, they must have thought Mark was crazy because they pointed to the beach across the street and said, "Um.....right there."  However, after clarifying he meant the bar, both foreigners did not know where it was.  We eventually found it and had a couple beers while rugby played on the TV above the bar.  Afterward, we went to an Irish bar called Wolfgang's near the more famous Haeundae Beach.  After a Guinness, we decided it was time to head home.  It had been a long day and we were tired.  There was a bus terminal near Haeundae Beach so we caught a bus back to Changwon which arrived around 12:30.  Despite being very tiring, I had a good time in Busan.  I would be willing to go back to Toastmasters as well as help out again with the volunteer organization. 

 Me at Gwangalli Beach

 Mark and I at Gwangalli Beach

Ian and I at Gwangalli Beach

 Gwangalli Beach

It was a long, tiring day!

Note:  I may add more pictures at a later time if I receive them.

The Job: Part 1

The main reason for me coming to South Korea was to teach so it only makes sense that my job is a major part of my experience here.  When evaulating my time abroad, one of the most significant considerations will be whether I look upon my job favorably or unfavorably.  Luckily for me, almost everything has been positive so far.

I've heard many horror stories about foreigners ending up in bad situations both through the teacher himself or herself as well as from other sources.  These bad experiences vary, but the most common situations are schools not paying on time if at all, teachers being fired for no legitamate reason, and schools placing unreasonable demands on the foreign teachers.

When I arrived here in Korea, I was surprised to find out my job situation was not quite what I had expected.  This made me extremely nervous at first.  I thought I was going to be working at one school and that my boss was the owner.  As it turns out, my boss is better classified as a recruiter (at least in my case).  He recruited me to "rent" me out to multiple schools who did not need a foreign teacher on a full time basis.  Honestly, had I known this beforehand, I probably would not have accepted the position.  I'm glad this was not the case as I am very happy with my current situation.

When asked about my boss, most of what I say is positive.  He has been very friendly and helpful to me thus far not only with job related issues but with other situations outside of work.  I am frequently asked if I am happy with my situation and if I am enjoying my time in Korea.  Having a boss who seems concerned about making sure I have a pleasant experience has helped make my transition to life here in Korea much smoother.

Currently, I work at three schools.  I also am tutoring a businessman one on one but I will address that at a later date.  While each school is run differently, I am happy with all three.  I like having a different school to go to each day because it helps me to avoid a monotonous routine.  I have different start and end times as well which helps to prevent me from getting in a rut.  One of my schools is in a different town, Jangyu.  I enjoy getting out of Changwon a couple days a week and being in different surroundings (even if visually there is no difference between the two).

My Korean coworkers I have worked with so far have been nothing short of friendly and helpful.  Whenever I required assistance, someone has always been available to provide it.  I am sure that some of my coworkers became sick of making copies for me as I only recently learned how to use the copiers (because I couldn't read the options in Korean, not because the technology baffled me), but they never complained.

My coworkers and directors at each school seem to respect my ability to run a classroom.  While my level of independence in the classroom is different at each school, I do not feel like I am being micromanaged in any way.  I feel that most of the time I am given enough leeway to conduct class in a manner I see fit.  Although I am required to use the provided textbook (trust me when I say most are not that great), I have also been able to introduce other material as well when necessary.   

The students I teach also show respect (that's a new experience for me!) and, for the most part, are fun to work with.  Despite the fact that Koreans tend to be shy, the students were very outgoing from the beginning.  After the initial shock of my presence wore off (this was usually in a matter of seconds) the curiosity would kick in.  Then the questions would come and these usually started with, "Where are you from?" or "How tall are you?"  The first few times I was asked my height, I answed, "6 feet 4 inches" and this caused a bunch of confused looks until I realized that I needed to provide an answer in centimeters.  I now say without thinking I am 193 cm tall.  It makes me wonder how long it will take me to adjust back to American units when I return home.  Surprisingly, I have only been asked how heavy I am once or twice.  Once introductions are over with, I am just another teacher.  Most students seem to like me, and I feel the same way about them.  The only behavior problems I have to deal with are younger students who may get a bit restless.  In a sense, working with the Korean students is almost like working summer camp at the park district.

To Be or Not To Be...Homesick

It's been a while since I last posted on here.  I've had most of my next post already written for some time now.  I just have to finish it up but I've been putting it off.  I'll probably finish it early this week.  Truth is, last week, I didn't have the motivation to do much of anything.  Upon reflection, I wonder if I was/am feeling homesick.  Many people told me it kicks in around two months after your arrival and this Tuesday will be the two month mark for me.  Aside from work, I really didn't do much throughout the week beside watch a bunch of TV shows and movies I downloaded or read a book on my Kindle.  I realized that I thought more often about what family and friends might be doing back in the United States.  Since I've never experienced homesickness before, are these thoughts, coupled with my lack of motivation, a case of me being homesick?

I've also heard that during the homesick stage, one might become aggravated with his or her new surroundings.  I came to Korea with the understanding that the culture was going to be different in some ways and I've tried not to allow American culture and expectations influence my views of Korea and its people.  Up until today, I think I have succeeded in this.  I should mention that Koreans in general are pushy people.  This has not bothered me once since I arrived.  In Korea, pushing your way through a crowd is not considered impolite, as is the case in America.  Normally, I don't fault Koreans for this.  People are a product of their environment and as such, this is how Koreans are raised.  Today, however, while grocery shopping, I was becoming very annoyed every time someone pushed past me.  I suppose it is my fault for deciding to go to the store on the day it is most crowded but nevertheless, I was still swearing (under my breath of course) at every person who pushed by.    

I tried to find other reasons for my lethargic demeanor and low tolerance level this past week.  The best argument against homesickness is the fact that this was the first full week following a short two-day week.  Even with a job as low-key and low-stress as mine, a full week following a vacation can still be tough.  Even many of my students seemed to be more apathetic and tired than usual.  I wouldn't be surprised if this is all it was and I was over thinking everything.  Some people say I do that from time to time.

Truthfully, I hope this is a case of homesickness.  I know I will get it at some point and the sooner, the better.  If this is all being homesick is, than it is no big deal.  I still went out on Friday night and had a great time.  I went with a bunch of people to an all-you-can-eat meat restaurant and to the bars afterward.  I was out drinking and playing bar games such as darts and beer pong and didn't leave until sometime after 3 in the morning.  If this past week was not a case of homesickness, than I guess I am still waiting and not knowing what to expect.  Either way, I've been here almost two months and not once have I thought that coming here was a mistake.  

Initial Thoughts and Observations - People

I am usually not one to worry about what strangers think of me, but I was a little concerned before moving here about how Koreans would respond to my presence.  I had heard a variety of stories about how Koreans treat the foreign population.  Some stories portrayed Koreans as extremely hospitable people who will go out of their way to make sure foreigners have a positive experience in their own country.  On the other hand, there were stories that characterized Koreans as unwelcoming towards foreigners and in some cases, hostile.  I was not naive enough to believe that either of these examples are typical of the average Korean, and assumed that the norm would be somewhere in-between.  Nevertheless, as I was about to move halfway around the world to a place where I didn't know a soul (no pun intended...Seoul, get it?), I was curious and a little bit anxious about how I would be treated.

My assumption that the scenarios I mentioned above were outliers was correct.  For the most part, I have been largely ignored by the locals as I have gone about my life.  If there has been any reaction to my presence, negative or otherwise, the people have kept it to themselves and not made it known to me.  This may be largely due to the tendency of Koreans to be shy, but I also assume that most people in Changwon have seen enough foreigners and are indifferent towards my existence.

Most of the interactions I have had with Koreans up to this point have been positive.  For example, I've met a few locals at the expat bar here in Changwon and have chatted with them over a few beers.  Just the other night, I spent a couple hours talking with a friendly Korean guy.  Afterward, we stumbled to a late night restaurant to eat some gukbap before we parted ways.  (Note to self:  The gukbap was a better post-drinking meal than McDonald's or Taco Bell.  The bottle of soju, on the other hand, probably defeated the purpose of eating following a night of drinking!)    

On Christmas, my boss invited me and a couple coworkers to his church for Christmas mass.  Over the lunch that followed, we met the pastor and his wife.  Besides being friendly, they gave us each a 3-pack of tissues as a Christmas gift.  It doesn't sound like much, but it is the thought behind the gesture that counts.  Besides, at the time, I had tissues on my shopping list!  We also met another member of the church who spoke English very well.  He gave us his business card and told us we could contact him if we needed any help.

A couple weeks ago, I was walking back to my apartment when a Korean woman stopped me and asked if I could shake her son's hand warmers to heat them up for him.  I was told I looked strong enough to do so.  We spent a couple minutes engaging in small-talk and she wound up telling me I have nice looking gums!  I am going to file that away as one of the stranger compliments I have received but it is a compliment nonetheless.

Besides that example, my interaction on the streets has been mostly limited to Korean youth.  While Koreans tend to be shy, the children will be more brave when in groups, especially the boys.  When this is the case, one member of the group will usually say hello and ask where I am from.  Sometimes, this is preceded or followed by a comment along the lines of, "Wow!  You very tall!"  The girls tend to be more bashful and are often too afraid to talk to foreigners.  Every now and then, if I pass a group of girls on the street, one or more will smile and wave and occasionally say hello but will not interact as much as the boys. 

While I am obviously a minority in an otherwise homogeneous population, I do not feel as if I am unwelcome.  I'm sure at some point, I will encounter a Korean (or group of Koreans) who will say something negative or provocative towards me.  There is a good chance that he/they will be drunk when it happens.  I am confident that, based on my positive encounters, I will not let such an occurrence taint my view of Korean people as a whole.   

These Damn Umbrellas!!!

Well, it took over a month and half, but I finally have a complaint about Korea!  The past couple days have been a little rainy and I've noticed that even when there is the slightest drizzle (I'm not exaggerating here), the vast majority of Koreans will use umbrellas.  Normally, this would not be a problem except for the fact that most sidewalks are narrow and I am considerably taller than the local population.  Considering that most people hold the umbrella 6-12 inches above their heads, this means that the spokes at the edge of the umbrella are around eye level to me!  I've had a couple close calls this past week where I thought I was going to be poked in the eye as I passed someone walking in the opposite direction!  Come on people!  A tiny bit of water is not going to hurt you!!!

Initial Thoughts and Observations - Transportation

Getting around Changwon was initially difficult as I was unfamiliar with the city and most people don't know (or pretend not to understand) English.  During the first month, walking has been my main mode of transportation.  Besides the exercise benefits, walking is convenient because I do not need to depend on a Korean to get where I want to go.  It also helps that most of what I have wanted or needed thus far can be found within reasonable walking distance.  Despite these advantages, walking can be a hazardous task as well.  I didn't take long for me to realize that I must be completely alert when walking along the streets as drivers, especially those on motorcycles and scooters, are not above using the sidewalk to decrease their travel time and will not always yield to pedestrians in the streets and in crosswalks.  Also, some drivers, especially those driving buses or 2-wheeled vehicles, will treat red lights as merely a suggestion.  I've recently discovered that South Korea has one of the highest pedestrian fatality rates in the world!

The bus network is very efficient and cost only 1000 won for most buses (1000 won is slightly less than $1), but figuring out the destination of each bus can be a daunting task.  The route maps at the bus stops are vague and only in Korean and for some reason, I cannot load the online maps on my computer.  However, once I learn where the different routes go, the city buses will be my main transportation choice when walking just isn't an option.  Like walking, I found out rather quickly that riding the bus presents its own hazards as well.  It would be completely justified to make the assumption that the bus drivers' pay is determined based upon how quickly they finish their routes rather than hours worked.  The last person in line to board the bus may not even be completely on the vehicle before the driver accelerates like a bat out of hell.  Many drivers are not gentle on the brakes either and I'm surprised I have yet to see (or be a passenger on) a tipped bus because the driver took a turn too fast!  It also doesn't help that there are fewer seats on the buses than city buses back in the U.S. so many people have to stand and hold on for dear life as the driver tries to beat the next traffic light and then slams on the breaks because he wasn't expecting the vehicle in front to stop.  Despite all this, the buses tend to be crowded so they must not be that dangerous........

 Euna Apartment Bus Stop

 Euna Apartment Bus Stop

While I'm getting better at it, reading these bus maps

is not easy to do.

The third option for traveling around Changwon is via taxi.  This is not to say that taxis are a bad way to go, but unless the bus isn't an option or I need to be somewhere in a hurry, the bus will always be cheaper when traveling solo.  However, if I can successfully tell the non-English speaking driver where I want to go, taxis are quite affordable compared to those in Chicago.  The most I paid for a taxi in Changwon was 12,000 won for a 20-25 minute journey.  The last taxi I took in the U.S. was $18 for a 5 minute ride.  Finding a taxi is easy as well.  There are taxi stands all over Changwon with taxis waiting for passengers.  If I am not near a taxi stand, flagging one down from the street is also an option.  Odds are, an available taxi can be found in less than a minute or two.  In addition, the interiors of the taxis I have ridden were much nicer and cleaner than any taxi I've ridden in the U.S.

Taxi stands can be found in convenient

locations all around the city.

Another way people move about Changwon is by riding bicycles.  There are red bike paths along most city streets or sidewalks.  Changwon prides itself on being biker friendly.  The city has a bike rental program called Nubija, where people can borrow a bike whenever they want and return it when they are finished at any Nubija location.  I forget the exact cost, but its less than 20,000 won for a yearly membership.  I don't know if I will ever use these bicycles as I really haven't had the need but its nice to know they are there if I do.

 Nubija location in downtown Sangnam-dong

  Green is for pedestrians.  Red is for bicycles.

I can say without a doubt that I do not miss driving one bit!  Changwon's cheap, efficient transportation system means I should not have any problem getting to the places I want to go.  It's only a matter of whether or not I get there in one piece!

Initial Thoughts and Observations - Sangnam-dong

In South Korea, each si (city) is divided into gu (districts) which are then divided into dong (neighborhoods).  My neighborhood is called Sangnam-dong.  It is located in the center of Changwon and I don't think I could be any more happy with my location.  If I want or need anything and it is available in Changwon, I can most likely get it via walking or taking a short bus ride.

I have repeatedly said that Sangnam-dong is not quite Las Vegas and not quite Times Square, but there are some similarities to the two American locations.  This area, along with Jungang-dong, is the nightlife center of Changwon.  As everyone is getting out of work and the sun is setting, the streets of Sangnam-dong fill with cars, and people litter the sidewalks, bars, noraebangs (karaoke rooms), restaurants, and cafes.  Also crowding the sidewalks are street vendors selling cheap food/snacks and other items such as jewelry, flowers, etc.  The overabundance of neon signs on almost every building light up the area advertising what is inside and what floor it can be found on.  If you venture onto an elevator at night, you are likely to see "hooker cards" advertising scantly clad Korean girls who will provide "company" for a price.  On one occasion, I did share an elevator ride with a Korean man who grabbed a card on his way out the door!  These activities last well into the night.  Even on a Tuesday night, I am no longer surprised to see groups of drunk Koreans stumble along the sidewalks after a fun night out.

 My Building at Night

 Sangnam-dong at Night

 Sangnam-dong at Night

Playboy has a presence in Sangnam-dong.

 Street Vendor Selling "Fishy" Snacks

Hooker Cards in My Building's Elevator

If there is a downside to Sangnam-dong, it is that the neighborhood can be a little boring in the morning and early afternoon on most days.  For example, many of the restaurants and bars do not open until late afternoon or early evening.  The exception to this is on days that end in a 4 or 9.  These days are "market days" in Sangnam-dong.  At 9:00 A.M, many vendors will start setting up their areas to sell produce, fresh seafood, Korean snacks, and even inedible goods such as clothing.  Even better, the main location for the market is right at the end of my block so I don't have to go far to partake!  Just the other day, I bought a bag of small oranges (about 20-25) and a bag of kiwis (about 15-16) for a grand total of 6,000 won (just under $6)!

 Sangnam-dong During the Day

Sangnam-dong During the Day

One of my biggest worries coming to Korea was the location of my housing.  I had nightmares of being on the outskirts of town with nothing going on in the immediate vicinity.  Thankfully, these fears were unfounded.  I can say with great confidence that I will be happy living in Sangnam-dong for at least the next 11 months.