Taiwan: Part 2

DAY 3

We had an early start the next morning as we had to catch an A.M. train down to Taroko, our next stop in Taiwan.  After a couple hours of watching coastal Taiwan pass by our window, we arrived at Taroko Station.  Finding a taxi wasn’t easy.  Usually, in Korea, there is a line of taxis waiting outside any bus or train station, but not here.  Finally, we spotted a taxi parked in the far corner of the lot and after a little hassle, were able to go to our hostel.  The hostel was not as nice, a bit less clean, and didn’t have as many amenities as the Banana Hostel, but considering the remote location as well as the price, it was more than adequate.

Our Train

Just Outside Taipei

Xizhi Station

Taiwanese City

Taiwanese City

Coastal Taiwan

Xincheng Station (Taroko National Park)

Xincheng Station

Our Taxi

The view during the taxi ride was amazing!

Still amazing.

We dropped off our belongings and went into the national park for a hike.  There are many different trails in Taroko National Park but since we didn’t have a full day, we chose the closest one, the Shakadang Trail.  This trail parallels a stream that runs through the gorge and provides a relaxing, scenic hike.  

Taroko National Park Entrance

I wasn't taking any chances with the sun!

Shakadang Trail Entrance

If you look closely, you can see the beginning of Shakadang Trail carved in the rock.

Shakadang Trail

They weren't kidding when they say to watch your head.

I doubt many of the locals can do that!

The trail ends at some stalls where the indigenous people who live in the park sell things such as sausages, teas, ice cream, and crafts.  We both bought a native Taiwanese mountain litsea sausage, whatever that is.  It turned out to be a Fruit Loop flavored sausage on a stick.  (No, there were not fruit loops in the sausage, but whatever was in it gave the sausage a fruity flavor.)  The vendor then pointed to the stream behind the stalls where many people were “swimming” in the stream despite many signs posted throughout the park prohibiting it.  I use swimming in quotes because the water was at most a foot deep in most places.  Since it was late July, a dip in the stream was very inviting.  However, once you step foot in the water, a bunch of tiny little fish start nipping at your feet.  It didn’t hurt, but it was a strange sensation at first and took a little getting used to.  I wasn’t expecting to be doing any swimming so I didn’t have a bathing suit.  Because of this, I was afraid to sit down for fear of the fish swimming up my shorts and nibbling “other parts” of me.  I finally decided to be brave and “test the waters.”  It turned out ok, as even when submerged up to the neck, the fish will only nibble as high as your ankles.  They won’t go near your legs, arms, hands, or any other part of the body.

Eating Taiwanese Mountain Litsea Sausage

She was really hungry!

When a large group of teenagers showed up, it was time to go!

Once we got back to the hostel, a shower and change of clothes was in order before trying to find dinner.  As the town consisted of one main street with a couple side streets, our options were limited.  We also noticed that most places closed by seven or eight o’clock so there would be no late-night dining, unless we wanted to go to 7-11.  Luckily, there was a restaurant next door to the hostel.  It looked to be run by a family of four, a husband and wife, along with their two children.  The food was really good, however, and we visited here again for tomorrow’s dinner.

Pork Noodles with Taiwan Beer

Beef and Vegetables

We ordered a plate of shrimp (yes, that's shrimp) not knowing it was going to be a dessert!  It was still delicious though.

External View of Restaurant

The watermelon was yellow but still tasted the same as any other watermelon.

DAY 4

The next morning, we took a bus deeper into the park with the plan to work our way back throughout the day.  We started by hiking along the Baiyang Trail.  Like the Shakadang Trail, this route took us along a stream, except much higher up.  Along the trail were several short caves we had to pass through.  Luckily, we had a flashlight, as the caves were pitch-black.  You can also see bats inside the caves.  Right past the first cave, we saw a monkey dash across the trail and into the trees.  We stayed more aware with cameras ready at this point, but unfortunately, we didn’t see any more monkeys.  

You can barely see the ground you were walking on in these caves.

Baiyang Trail

I didn't see one wasp the during the entire hike.

High Above the Stream

Baiyang Trail

Near the end of the trail was a rope bridge suspended high above the gorge.  It was very nerve wrecking walking across while holding on tight to the rope to steady yourself as the bridge sways with every step.  Of course, looking over the side down to the stream far below does not help as you attempt to traverse the wobbling bridge.  Once you cross the bridge, you can see the Baiyang Waterfall high up in the mountains.  

 

Baiyang Waterfall

Baiyang Waterfall

No way you'd catch me wearing a helmet while hiking on a hot and humid summer day,

Lisa and I with our roommates from the hostel.  We didn't set out together but rather, ran into each other near the bridge.

At the end of the trail, you can enter the Water Curtain Cave.  You must wear a poncho (provided) and remove your shoes as water is falling from the ceiling along the entire length of the cave.  The footing was treacherous, as we had to be careful not to fall and to avoid any sharp or unstable rocks in the stream.  At the end of the cave, there was a small view into the mountains.  The cave was a bit overhyped, but it was cool nonetheless.

In our ponchos ready to go into the Water Curtain Cave

Water Curtain Cave Entrance

After finishing the Baiyang Trail, we went to the tiny village nearby to eat some lunch.  Luckily, we were able to get an English menu as we ordered.  Beside some typical Taiwanese fare, we ordered “fresh-water minnow.”  We thought it would be some sort of fish fillet that would be grilled, fried, or cooked using some method.  Imagine our surprise when a dish was brought out with a bunch of small fish half the size of my pinky finger, cooked, but still fully intact.  Worried about the bones, I get the attention of one of the staff.  She doesn’t speak English so I ask if we are just supposed to pop the little fish into our mouths whole using miming.  She smiles and nods yes.  Well, we are paying for it so we might as well try it.  I’ll try almost anything once…remember! 

I raise one to my mouth not sure what to expect.  I’ve certainly never been eye to eye with my food before!  Meanwhile, Lisa is watching me with dreaded anticipation.  She was much more afraid of eating the fish than I was.  In my mouth the fish goes and I bite down.  It was crunchy, but not because of any bones, but rather the way it was cooked.  I couldn’t even feel the bones.  Anyway, it didn’t taste bad.  It wasn’t great was it was certainly edible.  We tried some with soy sauce as well.  I would never go seeking it out again, but if I were with someone who wanted to try it, I wouldn’t say no.

YUMMY!!!!!!

That expression was not posed!!!!!

Our next stop in the park was the Lushui Trail.  Instead of following a stream, this trail took us through the forest.  Other than offering different scenery, still spectacular, however, there was nothing special or unique.  We continued through the park to Yantzkou (Sparrow) Grotto, an enormous vertical wall of a cliff.  It gets is name from the sparrows who nest in the many holes and crevices littering the face of the wall. 

Lushui Trail

View from Lushui Trail

Another rope bridge, but more steady and not as high.

Seriously, I gotta walk through this?!?!?!?!?

Don't ask!

Yantzkou Grotto - The picture does not do justice to the enormity of this rock wall.

Our final stop was the Changchun Shrine (Eternal Springs Shrine).  This small shrine near the entrance to the park is dedicated to those who lost their lives constructing a highway through the park.  The name is due to the water that never stops running through the shrine.  We wanted to hike the small trail behind the shrine, but we didn’t have time before the last bus out of the park was scheduled to come and it started to rain.  Much like Florida, it seems to rain here every afternoon for about a half hour or so.     

 

Changchun Shrine

Changchun Shrine

Inside the Shrine